Sigh, and groan. Surfing, for me is always a topic of anxiety, stress, contemplation, debate, reflection, frustration, and sometimes regret. My competitive nature forces me to get back out there, and if it weren’t for that, I’d probably have said “screw it” a long time ago. I could add the word fun, maybe… some days. I wish I could say so more often. This would decrease the pre-surf anxiety, nausea, and scaredy-ness.
Our first day out on this Honolulu trip I can add the word fun. I had the 9’8” rental noserider and had a few great long rides. That feeling is what makes the hard work and all the choice words above go away for a brief period to let enjoyment take over.
Yesterday, fun was not really in the vocabulary. The wave was super busy because it was Sunday, and there was a boat race clogging half the break with area roped off. So, twice the people and swimmers were taking up half the space. Each lesson had like 10 squeally chicks lying around taking up space. It was also low tide, and I burried my nose half a dozen times, and only rode one short half-assed wave a short distance. My patience was short, and with another sigh and a groan I paddled into the beach and sat in the sun to wait for the boys to give up too.
I debated going out again, but nothing changed. It was busy. There was no space. I hate admitting defeat and ending on a bad note.
The boys went out again in the evening, but because we had a damaged board from the morning, I sat and watched from the beach. This time I learned that if I go down to the beach and watch, I’ll have the urge to go in. What?! I know! I actually felt a bit left out.
Walking the distance down to the beach is also getting old. Our hotel is farther away than we thought, at 0.7 miles or 1.5 km (I just google mapped it to check distance). Walking down there 3 times per day, and carrying 2 surfboards together is a huge strain on the neck and my need for a massage is growing exponentially with each jaunt. Every time we walk by the beach front hotels, I get reminded from someone that he’d like to stay there instead. Next time.
